We were up bright and early again for our ride up to the next stop, Chamonix. Again, we were trying to beat the weather and took the main Interstate (or Péage) for half of the ride before turning off for a more scenic option that took us around Lake Annency and up into the hills above to the “Col de la Forclaz”, where I ‘d been told to expect stunning views of the lake and surrounding mountains. As we rode up we glimpsed the lake between the trees and I could already tell that the view from the top was going to be fabulous! Onwards we rode, passing cyclists and spotting paragliders launching from the summit. Twisting and turning until we reached 1157m and the top where there was a large viewing deck area…just as the fog rolled in!
Standing at the view point, unable to see a thing except the tree in front of me, I was a tad disappointed but not as much as the pair of cyclists who came huffing and puffing to a stop after having pedaled all that way just to sit in a fog cloud! Ah, well, we came, we saw and we bought the post card! That showed us how wonderful it could be! Iain decided it was time for a coffee break and so we popped in to the café there and sat for a while. I am so thankful that we did. As we were finishing up and getting our gear back on, the fog bank began to roll away and we were able to catch a look at what really was a truly awesome view 
Very aware of the incoming rain
due, we hopped back on the bike and headed back down and on towards Chamonix. Another road of twisting, turning thrills took us back to the main road and headed up towards the snow capped mountains in the distance.
due, we hopped back on the bike and headed back down and on towards Chamonix. Another road of twisting, turning thrills took us back to the main road and headed up towards the snow capped mountains in the distance.
As we grew closer to Chamonix, the daunting Mont Blanc, which at 4,810m is the highest mountain in Europe, rose up before us in all her glory. Still heavy with snow, which apparently never fully clears, this was to be the view from our balcony window
AirBnB for the win again 🙂
This was another cute apartment but kind of smaller than I had expected. It had everything we could need though and was comfortable. After quickly de-kitting and getting washed up we took the short stroll to the main town and settled in for a bite to eat and a few beers. Just as we sat down, the sky delivered the biggest deluge yet. We’d just scraped through in time, I can’t imagine how awful it would have been riding in that! However, it was passed through in under 15 mins and the rest of the day was bright sunshine, which allowed us to take in the most spectacular scenery around us. Chamonix sits in a valley at the base of Mont Blanc, and is surrounded on all sides by the most impressive mountains. The vibe is cool and all the visiting folks are outdoorsy types, just oozing energy, I did feel a little out of place!! We could hear languages from every corner of the globe. But the people who come to this ‘summit meeting’ share the same way of thinking, the same love for mountaineering, its legends and its ethics.
There was no private parking in our accommodation block and we were directed by the host to park to the side which was reserved for guests but was still a main thoroughfare for the public. Iain debated using the disc lock for the bike but I said “oh, she’ll be fine here. It’s a lovely place, no one will do anything”…words that came back to haunt me the following morning 🙁
As we set off on our days planned ride Iain was thinking that something was different but couldn’t put his finger on it until he went to pull out, looked in his wing mirror…but what wing mirror? There was no mirror there. Some bastard had stolen it! Pulling over to check the small bags that stay on, we found that nothing else had been touched, all was still in place, except the damn mirror. It was the left one as well, the most important and so had to be replaced asap.
Google is your friend and we were able to locate a BMW dealer near to our intended destination so back on we hopped and headed off, Iain feeling a little lost without the mirror that he kept trying to use!
Google is your friend and we were able to locate a BMW dealer near to our intended destination so back on we hopped and headed off, Iain feeling a little lost without the mirror that he kept trying to use!
The smell as we descended down into the city of Martigny was wonderful. Neither of us could decide just what it was but it reminded of a familiar essential oil. The air was thick with it but on either side of the road were just grapevines – we never did work out what the aroma was or where it came from!
Today took us on another super fun ride, high up to the Col des Montets, a mountain pass of 1,461m elevation and passing into Switzerland via a most unremarkable border crossing that was barely sign posted – there went my picture goals of a bike/sign post at each new country we entered!
Our destination was the town of Montreux and the memorial statue honoring one of the most amazing artists ever…Freddie Mercury. After a car park faux pas, in which I had a small stand off, in my best school girl French, with a rather feisty parking attendant, we managed to get sorted and went to find and pay homage to the great showman.
Freddie came to Montreux and settled there in 1978. It’s reported that the locals were very discreet and he fell in love with the place, famously stating, “if you want peace of mind, come to Montreux”. To commemorate him, a bronze statue was placed by the waterfront and Freddie now stands, in his iconic pose, gazing out over the beautiful Lake Geneva and visited daily by worshipping fans from all over the world.
Freddie came to Montreux and settled there in 1978. It’s reported that the locals were very discreet and he fell in love with the place, famously stating, “if you want peace of mind, come to Montreux”. To commemorate him, a bronze statue was placed by the waterfront and Freddie now stands, in his iconic pose, gazing out over the beautiful Lake Geneva and visited daily by worshipping fans from all over the world.
It was from here that we took our diversion off to get the new mirror. It was an hour added to our ride but a necessity. The very kind folks at the BMW Moto Vionnet did not have a mirror in stock but were able to take one off of a showroom bike and give us that. Very nice of them!
Back on the bike and back towards home, we returned to Montreux and were able to take a lovely scenic road all the way round Lake Geneva before cutting back through the mountains, via another “blink and you miss it” border crossing into France again. This EU lark is good and obviously much less hassle but I was looking forward to picture opportunities and passports stamps!
Originally I had penciled in two waterfall stops on the route back but, our day had lengthened somewhat and there just wasn’t time. However, there are many to be seen from the roads as we swept our way through the mountains and back to Chamonix.
Back in town and showered, we wandered out for supper and enjoyed a really good Indian!
So many bars and restaurants to choose from and we opt for a good old curry 😉
So many bars and restaurants to choose from and we opt for a good old curry 😉
The next day turned out to be my best day yet! Waking up to clear blue skies we agreed that I would be brave, pull up my big girl panties and get in the cable car to go up THERE!!!
The Aguille di Midi, a 3,842m altitude mountain, accessed by, as it turned out, two cable car rides and giving the most spectacular views over Mont Blanc and the surrounding mountains.
I have a fear of heights, cable cars and confined spaces. Deep breaths were needed to step in the car and being packed in like sardines didn’t help my claustrophobia…however, I kept telling myself that it was going to be worth it.
…and, hot damn, it most certainly was!
The Aguille di Midi, a 3,842m altitude mountain, accessed by, as it turned out, two cable car rides and giving the most spectacular views over Mont Blanc and the surrounding mountains.
I have a fear of heights, cable cars and confined spaces. Deep breaths were needed to step in the car and being packed in like sardines didn’t help my claustrophobia…however, I kept telling myself that it was going to be worth it.
…and, hot damn, it most certainly was!
They did have this crazy glass box, where you can literally, step into the void. Unfortunately, the line waiting was just too long and Iain wouldn’t wait or I totally would have done it…yeah, right!!!
I don’t have the adjectives necessary so I will let these pictures do the talking!
We stayed up there for a while, feeling on top of the world. We even went for a little stroll in the snow before I had to get brave again and get back in the cable car to make the descent. In actual fact, it really wasn’t as bad as I feared. Fears conquered 🙂
The afternoon found us in a different kind of beauty. Deep in the hills just outside Chamonix, are the Gorges de Diosaz. This was a pretty stiff hike, uphill through well carved out walkways and steps, passing four smaller waterfalls for 2Km until you reach the biggest waterfall at the top. If only Iain had listened to me when I “strongly suggested” that he change out of his bike pants and boots to wear his hiking boots and shorts. Hmmm…guess who was not the happiest bunny on his way to the top!!
I’ve used up all my describing words already…too amazing to write about so here’s the pictures.
I’ve used up all my describing words already…too amazing to write about so here’s the pictures.
After all this excitement and wonder we were pretty exhausted so it’s a good job there is a bar/restaurant at the bottom of our apartment building!
Is it a bad thing when the server brings out your drinks without asking your order? We’ve only been here a few days
Our next adventure found us way up in the mountains to the south of Chamonix and riding the “Col des Saisies”, “Col du Pré” and the “Cormet de Roselend” along with about 200 cyclists who were taking part in the “Time Megeve 2018.” We were caught up in the middle of a bunch of crazies who think that cycling 115Km (including 3225m of vertical ascent) is fun! Seriously, as much as it was a tad annoying having to keep slowing, you have to hand it to these folks. I get out of puff just on the straight!!
Originally we were going to take a loop including the highly recommended “Little St Bernard Pass” which would have dipped us into Italy a bit and through the Mont Blanc tunnel. Unfortunately the pass was still closed, as are a few of the passes in the Dolomites that I want to do still are. Just hoping that they open in the next few days.
When we reached the top of the Roselend, we were met with one of the infamous “Route Barée”signs that have been rather troublesome to us this trip! We doubled back a bit to a café that was beautifully situated on a lake and with a good view of the road heading up to the top of the pass. We soon noticed that other bikers were going by, heading up to the pass, and NOT coming back. Hmmm, we wondered, could there be a way we could get through after all?
Sure, we can do it! We’re tough bikers. We can do anything we want! Back on the bike we hopped and headed back on up the road, scooted past the signs and carried on to see what the blockage was about. The road was uneven and was being worked on but not impassable…until we turned a corner to find deep snow completely blocking the way. Hmpf!!
Across the blockage were three other bikers, one of them walked across the snow drift and indicated that there was a way to go around it, just needed to go off road a bit.
No problem for Iain, just so long as I wasn’t on the back. That was cool with me, I got to take some video footage!
No problem for Iain, just so long as I wasn’t on the back. That was cool with me, I got to take some video footage!
After all that fun the rest of the way was easy to negotiate and beautiful to ride. I was amazed at the size of the drifts still at the side of the roads. I can’t imagine how crazy it must be up there in winter!
Our last night in Chamonix was fun and we were sad to say goodbye the following morning but also excited to move on to our next stopping point, Lauterbrunnen in Switzerland.
Europe 2018
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Follow our posts as we prepare for our 13 week tour of Europe that starts in May 2018!
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